Modern sport bikes can come with a bewildering variety of suspension to adjust. Preload, rebound, rebound damping, high speed, low speed damping, etc. Where to start?
Before seeing the look of the bike, what are we talking about, consider this article is intended primarily for the sport bike rider. Most cruise uprights have little or nothing. They live with what has been the factory, you have the chassis componentsBooth after market unit or internal bits replaced by a professional.
The adjustment of the simple but important things you can do is set the static sag. SAG is exactly what it seems – as the bike when you sink into it.
Ideally, the sinking will be 25 to 30 mm, or 1-1 ½ inches, the bike more. To find out where the sink, you need an assistant. Dress in all your usual riding attire, such as helmets, leather, shoes, etc. You want to set the sinkingapproximately the same weight as when you travel. While standing beside the motorcycle, press on the tail once or twice to ensure that the suspension in its normal resting position.
With a dowel rod, yard stick or similar device, measure the distance from the ground up to a certain point on the bike. The turn signal or a point on the seat or in a frame works well. To ensure that the point at which the measure is not covered, if you're in motion. OK, is the measure? Or writemeasure (in inches or millimeters) or simply mark the place of his bar / club.
Now get on the bike, in full swing. This is where your help is needed. For a more accurate measurement, try to keep the bike upright with both feet completely on the spindle. In this position, a measure further. See the difference? That sag. If less than 1 cm or larger than 1 ½ inches, you have to preload the fork and / or download for Adaptationthe desired results. Increase (usually an adjustment screw, turn left or collar), a bit 'at once reduced to a collapse. The decrease in the preload increases the amount your bike here.
Adjusting the train and the bounce is much more complicated and requires cycling, and tried different settings over time. Front compression damping and reduces your bike dives under braking. More information on the back reduces the amount of sitting in the backPower. Too much compression damping the bike in many stumbling blocks may have opened up the transfer to absorb every bump on the road, without an agreement. If you are just riding on a smooth track of compression damping can be a good thing. If you go wrongly, you will probably need to adjust the setting.
The rebound of the wheels affects how much "bounce" the brakes and wallowing in power. Too much rebound damping and the suspension does not respond quickly enough for the goodObstacles on the road. The fork or shock to get "scholarships" to be guided by repeated blows, the reduction of travel and can be a bad or worse. Too little rebound damping front and rear wheel rolls like a '68 Cadillac, which is very unpleasant and difficult to control.
Your task is to find the right balance for you and your driving style. In general, it is better with the setup of the bike came with starting from the factory. There isone reason why they are where they are. From there, spending time on the bike. It 'too rigid? You roll? Make sure that you really feel different ends of the bike. Adjustments, but not by much. We propose that the adjustment in increments of one step at a time until you find the weak point to be found.
Once you get your preferred settings in code, you can start with them a little 'different times. For example, you could change things a bit 'A day of fast-track at California Speedway. Or just want to solve it, a notch or 2 if you plan to visit Caramel Valley Road (ask me how I know!). Whether you decide to set aside or may make changes from time to time so that the bike handle better for you and your driving style can reduce lead times, and you certainly improve your enjoyment of guide.
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